Installation – Turbo EFI

We have developed 2 ways to inject the Turbo Model.

  • Injectors in the Turbo Tube
  • Injectors in the Cast Throttle Body

Injectors in the Turbo Tube (This was experimental/developmental and will no longer be produced)

Injectors in the Cast Throttle Body (TESTING)


  • Remove Carb and air Cleaner Assembly
  • Remove studs from the turbo housing assembly (double nut if needed)
  • Replace Turbo studs with those provided in the kit
  • Install Injector Spacer (between Turbo housing and butterfly)
  • Install Turbo throttle assembly
  • Install 2nd Stage TBI
  • Install TPS Linkage to Throttle Assembly
  • Install Fuel Lines and Fuel Pulse Damper (FPD)


Remove Carb and Throttle Assembly:

Remove Turbo Studs:

Install New Turbo Studs (Provided with kit):


Mount Control Panel:   The control panel is mounted in the engine bay for simplicity and ease of installation. The Map Sensor will need to be removed, holes drilled, panel-mounted, and replaced components as shown in the photo. The ECM is water-resistant, but not waterproof, and care should be used to keep water directly away from the ECM.  The Fuel pump wire (Red/Black) from the control panel is routed to the fuel pump.  The left (#1) relay controls and provides power to the entire EFI system.  The right (#2) relay controls the Fuel pump and optional WBO2 power.  After installation, ensure your control panel is grounded as this ground is used for the relays, ground shield, and crank sensor.  Drill and mount the control panel before you install your driver’s side TBI to allow room for a drill.  After installation, install the MAP Sensor and Wiring harness.  

  • Early-model car/wagon (1961-1964)  The control panel is mounted horizontally in the blank space under the removed voltage regulator.
  • Late-model cars (1965-1969)  The control panel is mounted vertically in the space slightly lower than the removed voltage regulator as shown in the photo.
  • FC/Vans (1961-1965)  The control panel is designed to fit the contour of the FC engine bay.  Bolts to secure the panel to the firewall are provided and only the MAP sensor needs to be removed to drill the mounting holes.


Late Model Installation:


Early Model Installation:


FC Control Panel Mounting:  This panel fits on the contour of the engine bay (drivers side)


Map Sensor Vacuum Line:  The MAP sensor is mounted on the Control Panel and monitors the vacuum/load of the engine.  A 1/4″ vacuum hose (not part of the kit) runs between the MAP sensor barb and the balance tube or PVC Line.  If a fitting is not available on the balance tube, cut and insert the 3/8″ x 3/8 x 1/4″ tee (included in the kit) into the PVC line and run a 1/4″ vacuum hose to the MAP sensor.   DO NOT USE the Carb/TBI base ports as using one side will create excessive vacuum pulsing to the MAP sensor.  If you are running extremely rich on start-up, check your MAP connector or MAP vacuum line as this will indicate there is no engine vacuum

Install Fuel Pump Block-off:  The Fuel pump block-off is installed by tapping into place using a rubber hammer as a metal hammer will damage the finish.  The factory hold-down bolt should not be used unless it is shortened or it will crack the housing when tightened.  This bolt or another 3/8″ hex head will also be used to secure the Pickup Sensor Bracket.  REMOVE THE FUEL PUMP PUSH ROD before installing the block-off which may damage the engine or housing when the engine is rotated.


GM Module/Round Coil Assembly:  The factory 1.5 Ohms 12V coil is used in conjunction with the Late model GM ignition module to produce a highly reliable ignition system with more than an adequate spark for most Corvairs.   DO NOT USE a resistor wire or ballast on the Positive side of the coil as the Module is designed to take the increased heat and will reduce spark intensity.   The Module assembly is connected to the wiring harness/ECM by 4 positions weather-pack connector and the Pink (+) and Black (-) wires are connected to the coil.  The GM ignition module is the latest in coil control technology in which timing and dwell are controlled by the ECM.   Since these modules were designed to carry a much heavier current load (0.6 Ohms), it stands to reason they should last for years carrying a lighter coil current load.  We may supply used GM modules rather than aftermarket modules, but we give a 1-year warranty on all modules.  Some may argue that the 1.5 Ohm/12v coil will malfunction when exposed to 12V, but the reasoning for using a line resistor was to protect the points, not the coil.  Use of an aftermarket 3.0 or 1.5 Ohm coil will not harm the system and will give an adequate spark,  but do not use a resistor wire.

Mounting:  Early Models should be mounted on the top right tag hole as the heat sink is threaded.  The Late model has 2 bolt holes that align with the Bracket.  The ground wire may be attached from the back using a lock washer to ensure it’s well grounded.  If this ground becomes loose, the ignition module will be damaged and in a no-run position.  FC and Wagon models are attached to the center support with a heat sink and use a 1 hole mounting.


Crank Trigger Wheel System:  The crank trigger wheel bolts to the front of the Harmonic Balancer using 3/8″x 3/4″ threaded bolts with a spacer between the HB and the crank trigger wheel.  You can install the trigger wheel first then install the HB with the trigger wheel attached.  If your HB is already installed on your engine, you can attach the trigger wheel without removing the HB by putting the bolts and spacers on the trigger wheel and using a “glue gun” glue to hold the spacers in place until the bolts are tightened.  Removal of the oil filter will allow more room to accomplish this task.  Removal of the rear mount bracket may save you time, but requires removal of the sheet metal under the motor mount and a jack/lift for the engine.  A crank pulley was used on the early model and low HP models instead of a harmonic balancer.  The trigger wheel is mounted with the engine at 0 degrees and the open slot at approx 10 o’clock position  (to the left of the degree indicator).  Trigger wheels have the white tooth painted and should be facing outward and the spacers are 5/16 nuts drilled out to 3/8″ which provides the perfect distance between the HB and trigger wheel.  Do not use lock/washers under the bolt as it will not allow you to change the belt as they will be too close to the rear engine bracket on some models.  Loctite or similar thread locking solution MUST BE USED to keep bolts from backing out after torquing.  After installing the timing wheel, you should check that you can change the fan belt.  If there is not enough room between the wheel and the rear bracket, washers will need to be added between the bracket and the engine mount and some trimming to the metal piece below the Harmonic Balancer/Pulley. (Where everything falls into)


If your engine is equipped with  Air Conditioning, Smog Pump and you want to keep the pulley, you will need to install the 6025 EFI Distributor.

Remove, Modify, and Replace Distributor:  Rotate the distributor to the #1 plug wire position, once in the #1 firing position, remove the distributor and either perform that conversion or install the converted distributor.  Install a new rotor button, cap, and base gasket for years of worry and maintenance-free ignition service.  Read the Distributor Conversion Page on how to convert the Corvair distributor to an EFI-controlled distributor.

Static Timing of the Distributor: Move the engine to 25 degrees BTDC (see pic) by rotating the engine where the “white” tooth is aligned with the fuel pump mounting hole and center crankshaft bolt.  Rotate the distributor to the #1 position and lock down the distributor using a 9/16″ wrench.  This alignment procedure must be performed before mounting the timing wheel pickup bracket for a clear alignment view.  Once this setting has been completed, DO NOT MOVE the distributor!!!.  Moving the distributor will NOT change the timing of the engine.  Moving the distributor out of phase will burn the cap/rotor and cause premature failure of the cap/wires/plugs.  If your trigger wheel does not have the white sticker (tooth), use the 2nd tooth clockwise from the open gap on the trigger wheel as shown in the pic below.  The white tooth is not painted, but white-out can be removed very easily.  COUNT TWO (2) TEETH CLOCKWISE FROM THE MISSING TOOTH AS SHOWN BELOW IN CASE THE WHEEL HAS BEEN MISMARKED.  After the Crank trigger bracket is installed, the sensor will align at approx 25 degrees.


Install Pickup Sensor Bracket:   The sensor bracket is mounted to the existing bolt hole for the Corvair fuel pump hold down.  Use the original bolt or a 3/8″-16 bolt with a lock washer for a permanent solution.  It should be mounted reasonably level and you may bend it slightly for correct alignment.  the bracket has an oval hole to allow for a slight timing adjustment of about 4 degrees.

Pickup Sensor:  This redesigned sensor uses a squeeze function rather than a set screw to avoid damage to the sensor by over-torquing.  The screw clamp can be rotated to the best position to facilitate adjustment and tightening for EM, LM, and FC.  This unit should only be “SLIGHTLY” bent or shimmed to get perfect alignment over the crank trigger wheel.


Wiring Harness Connection Points:  The main wiring is routed from the driver’s side to the back of the vehicle and ends at the passenger side TBI.  You may modify your wiring harness location and route, but cutting the wiring harness violates your warranty.

  • Map Sensor (Control Panel)
  • Main Ground to #4/#6 area of the engine head
  • TPS (mounted on Turbo Tube)
  • Engine Temp
  • Injector 2 (Drivers Side)
  • Crank Sensor
  • Coil and Ground/Ignition Module
  • Injector 1 (Passenger Side)
  • Idle Control System Solenoid (NOT USED ON TURBO)
  • WBO2 sensor(s) or O2 sensor
  • Fuel Pump Output wire (14 AWG wire to fuel pump – FUSED)
  • 12V Battery (Red) – Fused to Battery (on all the time)
  • 12V switch (Orange) – Connect to the 12V Switch (At the start of the resistance wire is a good place)

12V Battery and Switched:  Cut the Resistor (cloth-covered) wire to the coil (no longer needed)  about 2″ away from the connector.  This will provide 12V during a switch-on condition which will power the ECM and Relay.   Connect to 12V Switched (Orange wire) from the EFI wiring harness.  The +12V Battery should be connected to a +12V Battery source that is always on and fused.