Effective 1 Oct 26″ The Crank Trigger Wheel System is no longer part of the kit unless special ordered. Kits ordered after 1 Oct 26 will have the TSP distributor as part of the kit. Call for pricing.
Crank Trigger Wheel System: The crank trigger wheel bolts to the front of the Harmonic Balancer using 3/8″x 3/4″ threaded bolts with a spacer between the HB and the crank trigger wheel. You can install the trigger wheel first, then install the HB with the trigger wheel attached. If your HB is already installed on your engine, you can attach the trigger wheel without removing the HB by putting the bolts and spacers on the trigger wheel and using a “glue gun” glue to hold the spacers in place until the bolts are tightened. Removal of the oil filter will allow more room to accomplish this task. Removal of the rear mount bracket may save you time, but requires removal of the sheet metal under the motor mount and a jack/lift for the engine. A crank pulley was used on the early model and low HP models instead of a harmonic balancer. The trigger wheel is mounted with the engine at 0 degrees and the open slot at approximately 10 o’clock position (to the left of the degree indicator). Trigger wheels have the white tooth painted and should be facing outward, and the spacers are 5/16 nuts drilled out to 3/8″, which provides the perfect distance between the HB and trigger wheel. Do not use lock/washers under the bolt, as it will not allow you to change the belt, as they will be too close to the rear engine bracket on some models. Loctite or a similar thread locking solution MUST BE USED to keep bolts from backing out after torqueing. After installing the timing wheel, you should check that you can change the fan belt. If there is not enough room between the wheel and the rear bracket, washers will need to be added between the bracket and the engine mount. You may also trim the bracket to allow room for the fan belt to slip past the trigger wheel.
Remove, Modify, and Replace Distributor: Rotate the engine until the distributor points to the #1 plug wire position. Once in the #1 firing position, remove the distributor and install the converted distributor. Install a new rotor button, cap, and base gasket for years of worry and maintenance-free ignition service. Read the Distributor Conversion Page on how to convert the Corvair distributor to an EFI-controlled distributor.
Static Timing of the Distributor: Rotate the engine to 25 degrees BTDC (see pic) by aligning the “white” tooth with the fuel pump mounting hole. You will want to perform this task before installing the crank sensor bracket to located white tooth. Rotate the distributor to the #1 position and lock down the distributor using a 9/16″ wrench. Once this setting has been completed, DO NOT MOVE the distributor!!!. Moving the distributor will NOT change the timing of the engine but will have the distributor out of phase will burn the cap/rotor and cause premature failure of the cap/wires/plugs. If you have a degree sticker that can be affixed to the harmonic balancer, move to 25 degrees BTDC. If the tooth is not painted white, COUNT THREE (3) TEETH CLOCKWISE FROM THE MISSING TOOTH IN CASE THE WHEEL IS NO LONGER MARKED.
Install Pickup Sensor Bracket: The sensor bracket is mounted to the existing bolt hole for the Corvair fuel pump hold-down. Use the original bolt or a 3/8″-16 bolt with a lock washer for a permanent solution. It should be mounted reasonably level, and you may bend it slightly for correct alignment. The bracket has an oval hole to allow for a slight timing adjustment of about 4 degrees.
Pickup Sensor: This redesigned sensor uses a squeeze function rather than a set screw to avoid damage to the sensor by over-torquing. The screw clamp can be rotated to the best position to facilitate adjustment and tightening for EM, LM, and FC. This unit should only be “SLIGHTLY” bent or shimmed to get perfect alignment over the crank trigger wheel.
