The Turbo version of our EFI is a staged, dual injector (wet) system features a 3d printed carbon fiber throttle body. The throttle body is annealed and can withstand temps up to 420f which is much higher than the TBI should encounter. The first injector is mounted in a aluminum triangle between the Turbo intake and the throttle valve and supplies the engine fuel during startup, low and medium engine load. As the engine load increases, the secondary injector, mounted in the Carbon Fiber throttle body base adds fuel along with the first injector. This arrangement allows for quicker starts when cold and hot and a good consistent idle. The fuel system if fed by a 58 psi capable pump that we can supply at extra cost or you can supply your own as the fuel pump is NOT part of the kit. The Idle Control System is a linear actuator connected to the throttle rod and the alternator and pulls the throttle open until the engine is warm.
Installation:
- Remove Carb and air Cleaner Assembly
- Remove studs from the turbo housing assembly (double nut if needed)
- Replace Turbo studs with those provided in the kit
- Install fuel lines inside engine bay
- Install 1st Injector Spacer (between Turbo housing and throttle valve)
- Install Turbo throttle valve and throttle body as an assembly
- Install TPS Linkage to Throttle Assembly
- Modify throttle linkage at crossover tube
- Fuel Pressure Regulator and Fuel Pulse Damper (FPD)
- Install vacuum hose for MAP Sensor
- Install Temp Sensor in Head (near #2 plug)
Remove Carb and Throttle Assembly:
Remove Turbo Studs:
Install New Turbo Studs (Provided with kit):
If you sent your throttle valve to us as a core, we assemble the Throttle body to the Throttle valve a
Throttle Valve and Throttle Body Assembly: If you didn’t send your throttle valve in as a core, you will need to assemble the throttle valve and throttle body together, Install TPS linkage and install as an assembly before installation. Do not loosen the lever on the throttle body as the TPS is preset to ease installation.
- Assemble the throttle valve to the throttle body using 3 ea 10-32 x 1″ screws. Place the gasket between them and tighten. Put a drop of Loctite on the screws to prevent back out.
- The throttle valve will need to be connected tot he TPS with the levers. This must be accomplished before installing on the engine.
- Remove the idle screw from the throttle valve and install “Allen” (Hex head) set screw.
- Place the lever on the throttle valve (as shown in pic below) and connect the linkage and lock. Make sure there is no binding at full throttle.
- Place the assembly on the 3 studs and tighten with 3/8″ nuts provided. You will need to modify a wrench to reach the bottom rear nut.
Mount Control Panel: The control panel is mounted in the engine bay for simplicity and ease of installation. As shown in the photo, the Map Sensor will need to be removed, holes drilled, panel-mounted, and replaced components. The ECM is water-resistant, but not waterproof, and care should be used to keep water directly away from the ECM. The Fuel pump wire (Red/Black) from the control panel is routed to the fuel pump. The left (#1) relay controls and powers the entire EFI system. The right (#2) relay controls the Fuel pump and WBO2 power. After installation, ensure your control panel is grounded as this ground is used for the relays, ground shield, and crank sensor. Drill and mount the control panel before you install your driver’s side TBI to allow room for a drill. After installation, install the MAP Sensor and Wiring harness.
- Early-model car/wagon (1961-1964) The control panel is mounted horizontally under the removed voltage regulator under the blank space.
- Late-model cars (1965-1969) The control panel is mounted vertically in the space slightly lower than the removed voltage regulator as shown in the photo.
- FC/Vans (1961-1965) The control panel is designed to fit the contour of the FC engine bay. Bolts to secure the panel to the firewall are provided and only the MAP sensor needs to be removed to drill the mounting holes.
Late Model Installation:
Early Model Installation:
Map Sensor Vacuum Line: The MAP sensor is mounted on the Control Panel and monitors the vacuum/load of the engine. A 1/4″ vacuum hose (not part of the kit) runs between the MAP sensor barb and the balance tube or PVC Line. If a fitting is not available on the balance tube, cut and insert the 3/8″ x 3/8 x 1/4″ tee (included in the kit) into the PVC line and run a 1/4″ vacuum hose to the MAP sensor. If you are running extremely rich on start-up, check your MAP connector or MAP vacuum line as this will indicate there is no engine vacuum
Throttle Rod Modification: This will require a torch or MAP torch to remove the linkage lever that is silver soldered on the throttle rod. The Main throttle rod will need to be modified due to relocating the position of the throttle plate. The rod will need to be removed from the cross-over tube and the silver soldered lever removed using a torch. After removal, the supplied lever and collar will be placed on the rod and adjusted as shown.
Install Fuel Pump Block-off: The Fuel pump block-off is installed by tapping into place using a rubber hammer as a metal hammer will damage the finish. The factory hold-down bolt should NOT be used unless it is shortened or it will crack the housing when tightened. Use a 3/8″ hex head bolt to secure the Crank Pickup Sensor Bracket to fuel pump bolt hole. REMOVE THE FUEL PUMP PUSH ROD before installing the block-off which may damage the engine or housing when the engine is rotated.
IGNITION:
VAG Coil: VAG (Volkswagen/Audi/Golf) Coil is standard for the Turbo model and a coil wire is also included. These coils are simple, dependable, powerful and easy to obtain. The mounting location of the coil is left to the installers discretion but must with be within the range of the coil wire. The coil has a 2 mounting tabs for securing the coil.
Crank Trigger Wheel System: The crank trigger wheel bolts to the front of the Harmonic Balancer using 3/8″x 3/4″ threaded bolts with a spacer between the HB and the crank trigger wheel. You can install the trigger wheel first then install the HB with the trigger wheel attached. If your HB is already installed on your engine, you can attach the trigger wheel without removing the HB by putting the bolts and spacers on the trigger wheel and using a “glue gun” glue to hold the spacers in place until the bolts are tightened. Removal of the oil filter will allow more room to accomplish this task. Removal of the rear mount bracket may save you time, but requires removal of the sheet metal under the motor mount and a jack/lift for the engine. A crank pulley was used on the early model instead of a harmonic balancer. The trigger wheel is mounted with the engine at 0 degrees and the open slot at approx. 10 o’clock position (to the left of the degree indicator). Trigger wheels have the white tooth painted and should be facing outward and the spacers are 5/16 nuts drilled out to 3/8″ which provides the perfect distance between the HB/pulley and trigger wheel. Do not use lock/washers under the bolt as it will not allow you to change the belt as they will be too close to the rear engine bracket on some models. Loctite or similar thread locking solution MUST BE USED to keep bolts from backing out after torqueing. After installing the timing wheel, you should check that you can change the fan belt. If there is not enough room between the wheel and the rear bracket, washers will need to be added between the bracket and the engine mount and some trimming to the metal piece below the Harmonic Balancer/Pulley. (Where everything falls into)
Remove, Modify, and Replace Distributor: Rotate the distributor to the #1 plug wire position, once in the #1 firing position, remove the distributor and either perform that conversion or install the converted distributor. Install a new rotor button, cap, and base gasket for years of worry and maintenance-free ignition service. Read the Distributor Conversion Page on how to convert the Corvair distributor to an EFI-controlled distributor.
Static Timing of the Distributor: Move the engine to 25 degrees BTDC (see pic) by rotating the engine where the “white” tooth is aligned with the fuel pump mounting hole and center crankshaft bolt. Rotate the distributor to the #1 position and lock down the distributor using a 9/16″ wrench. This alignment procedure must be performed before mounting the timing wheel pickup bracket for a clear alignment view. Once this setting has been completed, DO NOT MOVE the distributor!!!. Moving the distributor will NOT change the timing of the engine. Moving the distributor out of phase will burn the cap/rotor and cause premature failure of the cap/wires/plugs. If your trigger wheel does not have the white sticker (tooth), use the 2nd tooth clockwise from the open gap on the trigger wheel as shown in the pic below. The white tooth is not painted, but white-out can be removed very easily. COUNT TWO (2) TEETH CLOCKWISE FROM THE MISSING TOOTH AS SHOWN BELOW IN CASE THE WHEEL HAS BEEN MISMARKED. After the Crank trigger bracket is installed, the sensor will align at approx. 25 degrees.
Install Pickup Sensor Bracket: The sensor bracket is mounted to the existing bolt hole for the Corvair fuel pump hold down. Use the original bolt or a 3/8″-16 bolt with a lock washer for a permanent solution. It should be mounted reasonably level and you may bend it slightly for correct alignment. the bracket has an oval hole to allow for a slight timing adjustment of about 4 degrees.
Pickup Sensor: This redesigned sensor uses a squeeze function rather than a set screw to avoid damage to the sensor by over-torquing. The screw clamp can be rotated to the best position to facilitate adjustment and tightening for EM, LM, and FC. This unit should only be “SLIGHTLY” bent or shimmed to get perfect alignment over the crank trigger wheel.
Idle Control System: This is the latest ICS for Brown EFI and consist of a linear actuator, Pull Chain and adjusters. The actuator will pull back on the throttle rod when cold and release when warm. It will need to be adjusted when cold to idle at approx. 1200 RPMs and will release when the engine temp warms to 140f. A relay box is supplied and will need to be mounted at the installers discretion.
WIRING:
Wiring Harness Connection Points: The main wiring is routed from the driver’s side to the back of the vehicle and ends at the passenger side TBI. You may modify your wiring harness location and route, but cutting the wiring harness violates your warranty.
- Map Sensor (Control Panel)
- Main Ground to #4/#6 area of the engine head
- TPS (mounted on Turbo Tube)
- Engine Temp
- Injector 2 (Drivers Side)
- Crank Sensor
- Coil and Ground/Ignition Module
- Injector 1 (Passenger Side)
- Idle Control System Solenoid (NOT USED ON TURBO)
- WBO2 sensor(s) or O2 sensor
- Fuel Pump Output wire (14 AWG wire to fuel pump – FUSED)
- 12V Battery (Red) – Fused to Battery (on all the time)
- 12V switch (Orange) – Connect to the 12V Switch (At the start of the resistance wire is a good place)
12V Battery and Switched: Cut the Resistor (cloth-covered) wire to the coil (no longer needed) about 2″ away from the connector. This will provide 12V during a switch-on condition which will power the ECM and Relay. Connect to 12V Switched (Orange wire) from the EFI wiring harness. The +12V Battery should be connected to a +12V Battery source that is always on and fused.
Optional GM Module/Round Coil Assembly: This assembly is provided at extra cost. The factory 1.5 Ohms 12V coil is used in conjunction with the GM ignition module to produce a highly reliable ignition system with more than an adequate spark for most Corvairs. The Module assembly is connected to the wiring harness/ECM by 4 positions weather-pack connector and the Pink (+) and Black (-) wires are connected to the coil. The GM ignition module is the latest in coil control technology in which timing and dwell are controlled by the ECM. Since these modules were designed to carry a much heavier current load (0.6 Ohms), it stands to reason they should last for years carrying a lighter coil current load. We may supply used GM modules rather than aftermarket modules, but we give a 1-year warranty on all modules. Some may argue that the 1.5 Ohm/12v coil will malfunction when exposed to 12V, but the reasoning for using a line resistor was to protect the points, not the coil. Use of an aftermarket 3.0 or 1.5 Ohm coil will not harm the system and will give an adequate spark, but do not use a resistor wire.
Optional Mounting of GM Module: Early Models should be mounted on the top right tag hole as the heat sink is threaded. The Late model has 2 bolt holes that align with the Bracket. The ground wire may be attached from the back using a lock washer to ensure it’s well grounded. If this ground becomes loose, the ignition module will be damaged and in a no-run position.
